Generally, for any work, I will begin with the prep and removal of the carbs and gas tanks. This is good stuff to know anyway. As is with all old bikes, some parts and techniques may vary. As you can see this is not the stock carb, being an S&S Short E. Keep in mind during this video that this is in preparation for several projects, also including the repair of the oil tank.
The video starts with the carb removal, given that not everyone removing a carb is necessarily removing a tank.
The tank removal begins with draining the tank into a gas can as shown, this is followed by the removal of the speedo/tach console.
When removing the tank I always ensure that the upper tank bolt is always kept in place so that a tank does not accidentally fall off as shown.
In this second video in the series ,having removed the gas tanks and carbs we continue by removing the manifold that connected the carb to the heads. I notice the oxidization on the rubber rings that makes me winder if there was a vacuum leak here, its worth noting.
This is a good time to get the throttle cable and spark plug cables out of the way, followed by the exhaust pipes. Note, my rear pipe has a different bolt. We get a first look at the oil coming through the oil coming through the valve guide with the pipe removed, as well as some other oil leaks to address on the transmission.
This is followed by the removal of the pushrods and their tubes together using a standard technique for each one as described in the video. Note the 7/16 size tools and the ease of this operation with a kick start. Also, the spark plugs need to be removed to do this. Further note the half profile spanner being user for this, very important! Its also important to note that all parts be kept as a set as removed and the O rings generally get stick in and remain in the engine and lifters..
With this out of the way the central oil line is loosened from both sides. If you chamfered one side like i did you can push it in and turn to remove it without loosening the heads as shown, if not you will have to wait until the hards are loose.
Then the mounts on the other side are loosened and removed, its the large beam across the top of the engine. I reassemble all parts and nuts and washers so i don't loose them.
Finally, the heads are loosened in a star configuration with a 9/16 spanner, taking a little tension off with each interval. Eventually they can be turned by hand and removed, except for one that stays in!!!, note the location of this special one in each head.
Also, the read head requires a special tool for one bolt because of the reach, I use a distributor wrench to reach it for loosening. Also the shift linkage had to be removed for this along with the coil.. Funny, i noticed my seat bracket also got in the way of the rear seat removal. The rear cylinder also gets removed along with the oil line.
As each head is removed, an inspection is done, the bore looks fine, some buildup on the piston head, no head gasket leaks, but no worries. With the heads out, were off to the machine shop!
We begin this chapter by packing up and going off to the machine shop where we meet with David Rumping who did the original machining will investigate the issue with the valve and front rocker noise. During disassembly we see that there are actually no seals on these valves. We did immediately locate the cause of the front rocker box noise due to casting issues.
Removing the boxes did have challenges due to the locktite on the nuts, heat was applied to ensure that the stud did not turn with the nut.
A major revelation was that the valve turned out the be just fine, nothing was found to be wrong at all. Though oil was leaking through, it was caused by other engine problems.
Dave did clean everything up for me and I took it all back home for reassembly. The cleanup also included valve stem seals. Also the front head was reworked to reduce that noise.
Back at home we start preparation by cleaning the mating surfaces and ensuring that all of the studs are the correct hight, adjusting them if necessary. Also each nut and each thread is tested beforehand to ensure that its a good fit without bind.
The new gaskets are laid in and the rocker boxed are applied back over the heads. Once assembled the washers and nuts are loosely fitted only to remove slack and then with a cross pattern from middle to outward the box is torqued ultimately to 175in/lbs. The completion of the head assembly closes this chapter...
In part four, I find it necessary at this point to remove the oil bag so that I can bring it over to the bug ranch so that the ear can be welded. Removal of these units are not as obvious as one would think, there is a sort of dance involved. Of course, this would include amongst its tasks the removal of the oil and removable components.
We see I managed to actually crack off another rubber mount, on the battery tray, lending to the suspicion that all of the rubber has become petrified and brittle. More new rubber mounts on the way. Following this the dance is underway to remove the tank without breaking anything else. Immediately cleaning begins, and I break up the sludge with kerosene. After agitation the drain plug is inspected and some more bad news is discovered.
METAL... LOTS OF METAL!!!!
Further consider, this is only from what was captured, says nothing about the oil, or what was in the filter. This cant be good. I think at the time the cylinder is good, little do I know that it is one of several failures. This was another moment when I realized this is not just a valve guide repair. With the tank completely cleaned, I ship it off to Jason for welding. Clearly there will be much more coming off of this engine, so I might as well conduct other tasks as I prepare and retool.
I start off with a basic cleaning of the transmission area just so its not disgusting. Mind you, my assumption is that the transmission is ok and well, only needs the kicker cover tightened. I further take this time to clean each an every connector and ground point on the bike. That means shined and Deoxit on each one. This included all of the cables I broke while removing the oil tank.
Back to the transmission, I was curious just how loose the nuts were, so I conducted a test with my in/lb wrench to see how low of a torque it would take to get them to turn. It was a disaster. So I opted to experiment with the Nordlock washers on the side covers to see if they would provide an improvement. With that, that about wraps up those tasks for part four.
Part 5 continues with the removal of the cylinder on the front of the engine. This begins with the loosening of the base nuts with a 9/16 in a cross pattern slowly removing tension until all of the tension is gone. At that point each one can be loosened and removed with the triangular washer.
I found that on the last of the bolts that it was turning with the stud and required propane to heat it up. Once heated there was no problem to loosen that bolt.
I ended up using the rear jug as an example only because it was easier to see in the camera. raising it slightly only to remove the one bolt still stuck in the jug. Then, bringing the piston to about the half way position it is lifted high enough to get a rag in to catch a possible broken ring or debris. The jug is then raised off.
Piston slap is evident, with wear on both the front and back, also, the ring openings are all pointed toward the front of the piston. This probably caused a good deal of that oil to come up through. Checking the play of the wrist-pin I can feel deflection, this is not so good.
The cylinder is washed with soap and water to remove all dirt. also through the oil drain to confirm no blockage. It is dried and hit with air and re-oiled.
The head gasket residue comes off with a razor blade without any issue as well as the base gasket. an inspection of the inside of the cylinder shown only minor wear due to piston slap and can most likely be cleaned up with a hone.
The piston is removed and removal confirms significant wear in the wrist pin bushing. A quick rubber mallet test is done on the rod. I didn't hear any metal sound which is a good sign but doesn't necessarily mean that there isn't a problem.
I will need to clean at least one of the pistons to be able to use it as a tool to check for ring wear. At the time, not knowing if I would be reusing the pistons, I assumed I would and cleaned them with kerosene and a brass brush. I noticed that there was wear along the sides of the piston face, which was not a good sign. Once the piston was cleaned I removed the rings in an ordered fashion and prepared the cylinder for ring gap testing.
Each ring, lowered in from the bottom and put into place with the piston one at a time and measured against book values showed them to be way out of tolerance. This due to the fact that most of the rings material were drained out in my oil. It became clear that all of the rings were trash. I still wanted to know how trashy though.
At this point everything I did was repeated on the rear cylinder. The only difference is that the same wrist pin issue is discovered. Im starting to think there might be a bottom end issue evolving. This project is going to get much bigger. I repeat the ring tests with the predictable results and then back up the cylinders to take to the machinist, because this engine will have to be removed for bottom end work having watched both wrist pins fail at the same time. In the end the cylinders were bored out .020 over with new pistons and rings.
In this chapter we will be doing the standard rebuild for cleaning of an S&S Super E (shorty) carburetor. This carb has seen some considerable time in standing gas due to the bike sitting up due to the engine problems, so its a good candidate for this demonstration. Adding to this ethanol gas, is a nice recipe for a mess. The demonstration shows that even a bad carb can be brought back to new in most cases with little work.
This carb is simple and only requires a few tools though a basic rebuild kit should be purchased before attempting. Starting with the bowl nut removed from the bottom to remove any gas, the carb is disassembled in the order as demonstrated, taking care no to loose any small parts, each inspected for wear damage or dirt collection.
The idle needle needs to be brought to full seat so that the turns can be counted to an 1/8 of a turn and recorded so that it can be restored to the same position in the reassembly portion. Care must be taken to bull the bowl off straight and not at an angle.
In this case we see that the float was completely stuck, though, the system has been dry and may have not been so if it were in gas. Still terrible. The float needle seat is removed from the bowl and polished first. Wear is seen on the inner race, though mild, its probably approaching the end of its service life. On the next removal, it will be replaced.
Every other serviceable piece is cleaned and polished in the same manner. The enrichener valve also demonstrated minor wear at the needle as well but still passed inspection. Some of the brass pieces cleaned are press fitted into the main carb components and are done before going into the tank. This includes the accelerator pump nozzle in the bowl, and the emulsion tube for the enrichener.
A mixture of simple green, distilled water and dish detergent is brought to about 70degC in the bath before putting the parts in the bring them up to temperature. The parts go through one 20min cycle before an inspection. It was determined that a second 20min cycle was ok to conduct. They were then allowed to come back down to room temp before rinsing them in a bath and blowing them out with air.
Assembly starts along with the rebuild kit parts starting with the float bowl pieces. Quickly an inspection is made of the float bowl height between 1/8 to 3/16 from the gasket height, measured with calipers. Mine turned out to be ok so O did not need to bend the metal tab. After this, the rest of all of the pieces were bolted on, the idle jet to full seat and turned out to the original position. This will require subsequent re-adjustment on the bike.
The main gasket is lowered across all of the parts on the car, with special attention to the o-ring on the accelerator pump nozzle. Then, carefully bringing both sides together. The final portion comes in a separate bad because the pieces are very small, the spring and the two bearings. The diaphragm for the accelerator pump only fits in one direction into the small cover.
A special technique is employed to but that bottom cover on as described in the video using the pump rod to counteract the spring tension to push the diaphragm into position as the cover is closed. The bearing side should be lowered first though so they don't fall out. Should the bowl need to be opened only the long screw need be removed from the pump cover, the pump can be left closed and not reopened to remove the bowl. The rest of the seals would be added during installation onto the bike.
In this episode of the project we will continue on with the removal of the primary, primarily in support of the removal of the engine so that it can be sent off for a bottom end rebuild. I will note that this model is a dry clutch belt driven setup so it will be a bit different than conventional models, but nothing terrible.
This begins with the removal of the outer cover, which in my case
is simply there to stop rocks from getting in or fingers from getting
chewed up. Its not oil tight. My gasket is only for vibration
dampening.
A combination of Belt and oil residue is an unwelcome sign of
things to come, nothing terrible, for now, but we continue onward as I
assemble a quick pressure plate stay to remove the clutch as one unit.
Everything with regard to clutch and friction plates seemed ok save some
glazing. Once empty, a special tool is used to loosen the primary
bolt. I'm not proud, I should have the correct tool on hand JIMS #2316.
To remove the pulley requires pullers, luckily I had that and it
came off without issue. for the Nut in the back, locking tabs are
hammered up and keeping in mind reverse thread it is loosened and placed
right back on. This requires another special tool for removal. After
removal, there is a key on the spline that needs to be removed and
saved. That covers all of the inner primary internal contents.
This brings up to the starter solenoid, removed with two bolts,
allow the sliding out of the Bendix. The remaining pieces for the
starter can be left alone. I stop and do a quick check that the
transmission mounting bolts are not loose before proceeding with any
further steps, nothing crazy, just not loose.
At this point the starter is removed, two bolts secure it, one from
inside the inner primary , the other side via a long extension from the
other side of the bike. Following this, the safety wire inside the
inner primary is cut and removed, along with all of the bolts inside the
inner primary. This also includes two external bolts of the primary
going into the engine.
With a few light taps, the primary is separated from the bike to
reveal some unfortunate findings. Notably, a serious leak around the
transmission area as well as an oil leak around the engine area
including a belt misalignment.
Looks like there is a lot of work ahead...
Having separated the inner primary in the last chapter, its now time to
remove the engine from the frame. For this an engine stand will really
become important to do so.
I mark the hoses first, so I reuse the same ones in the same location,
having retained the correct bend over time; pulling them out of the way.
This also includes ignition and other such electrical cables. There
aren't much. Also, the voltage regulator is easily removed forward of
the engine and cane come out at this time. The connector for the
regulator comes right out of the motor case.
With this, I want to remove any residual oil from within the case, I use
a vacuum pump for this task, this is only so I don't make a mess later
and for no other reason. In the next step the removal of the engine
mount bolts it becomes obvious that something is wrong.....
In removing the bolts its clear that these are not mounting bolts and
have worn away causing engine deflection and vibration. Very bad. A
quick test that the engine is unseated confirms its ready to be removed
from the chassis.
Ill also point out that there were no shims under this engine when it was
removed.
I mount the engine into the stand, using these wrong bolts just to hold
it safely in place, and start a degreasing exercise on the frame. While
the degreaser is working I get the engine on the bench.
We start with the removal of the stator cover to expose what was a known
hairline crack for re-inspection. As seen, its gotten so much worse
and the cable is completely destroyed, the stator is unserviceable and
is removed. All of these charging system items are collected and stored
in one box for later.
Turning the engine around I remove the timing and quickly scribe in some
timing marks before removing the ignition; working the ignition wiring
out of the cam cover. This is followed by the rotor bolt, holding the
engine. These items are stored together as ignition system.
Now I pull the lifters and put them in a special market container by
position, Then loosening the bolts from the cam cover. I assemble a
setup for my cam cover puller, thankful that I drained much of the oil
before with the vacuum pump.
We start with a quick inspection looking at all of the markings making
sure everything matches up. They did. Another inspection of the cam
showed it in perfect condition. I jumped out of order for a second to
do this, I should have removed the rollers first, so I put the cam back,
and did it right.
I removed the breather and checked for obstructions in the mesh and
found none, it was cleaned and re-inserted. The next task was oil pump
removal. Everything was 7/16 for this task. After this my oil pressure
gauge was removed. exposing the spring and filter below. This too,
unobstructed.
I correctly reassemble everything with the lifters and rollers to
disassemble correctly and place them in the ordered container. All
bearings and seals on the cam cover will be replaced as well.
Everything is ready for the machine shop.
Having removed the engine and primary in previous videos it was noticed
that there was quite an amount of transmission oil everywhere requiring
closer inspection. A first test of the actual gear showed severe
deflection. First we will give the bike a well needed bath, covering
certain areas first and applying a de-greaser as well as a good
agitation.
A quick jump over back to the engine only to point out some damage
that was discovered after the removal video that I felt important to
include, these items would be repaired obviously but I wanted the damage
from the mis-alignment to be seen.
Returning to the garage, a quick discussion of the removal strategy
starts with the removal of the chain itself, using a chain breaker
tool. The goal here is to reuse the chain, removing with the proper
tools. With the master link removed, the chain is negotiated out from
the sprockets and stored, because it is disgusting.
This brings us to the worst most over engineered shift linkage on the
planet, though not a problem to remove, i'm often amazed when I stare at
this and wonder what they were thinking when they designed this. The
clutch cable is move forward to release it from the connector and pushed
back in.
Two of the transmission cover nuts are removed to release the starter
mount allowing the starter to be swung out of the way. I also remember
the hose guide needs to be loosened and moved out of the way.
At this point the 9/16 transmission mounting bolts are loosened from
under the bike. A wiggle confirms this and the transmission is easily
removed and put up on the bench.
With the transmission out of the way, focus is turned to the engine
guard, which is removed and inspected, it would appear there was a
bottom out event. This might have been one of the causes of the
misalignment. This plate will be cleaned and repainted.
During this time, the bike will be washed again. Once dried some
cosmetic and protectant work is done on the lower frame, these are non
visible areas and only for protection.
At this point its time to dive into the transmission.
This video starts a several part sub series that makes up the
transmission restoration project for this motorcycle. As it was already
discovered that the transmission had also suffered some degree of
damage, the extent, not known however, enough so that a complete
disassembly will be required to accomplish the goal.
The unit is broken into three groups, the ratchet top, the case and
the starter. This will start with the removal of the ratchet top. This
will be followed by the removal of the sprocket and associated
components.
With the shift release arm removed the kick cover is ready to come
off. All of the nuts were secured with nord-locks previously so they
will need to be retrieved and collected because they are expensive.
This was followed by the throw-out and rod.
The next job was the starter clutch assembly but i wanted to see what a
magnet would capture, it was absolutely terrible, tons of metal in the
oil caught on the magnet.
Having no was to support the transmission to remove the starter nut, I
re-mounted it into the motorcycle frame just to break the tension, then
it went back on the bench.
Upon removing the starter components, I stop quickly and measure the
countershaft end-play as it stands. Looking for .005-6 I'm finding about
17-18thou... Which is terrible. terrible.... I assumed it was an end
shaft bushing issue in the video, but I was wrong those were fine, it
just needed a larger shim, that's for later though...
Now the kicker assembly is completely disassembled and stored. The
one way clutch for the starter proved to be a challenge, using oil didnt
work, I got a good tool from napa 776-9073, but this also required
propane as the mating surfaces were rusted. This process took patience.
This allowed the removal of the rest of the starter components. Behind
this is the Shaft bearing plate which is removed.
Next is the removal of both shift forks, removed following removal of
the shift fork shaft. The Plate also held in the countershaft allowing
it to be pushed through, allowing the whole counter shaft assembly and
end shim to be removed.
Now the main shaft is free, a few light taps with a rubber mallet the
bearing from the case. once free, the shaft retainer is removed to
allow the complete shaft removal, leaving behind the components inside
and the final drive gear.
With the case emptied, a final look at the main shaft shows deep
gouging. The next video will allow the transmission healing to begin
Part 11 continues the tear-down after the disassembly from the
transmission case. This will start with the disassembly with the kicker
cover. The first observation is that the 40lb/ft nut is loose, only held
by the lock washer, so a check will be done to see if there was any
damage after disassembly. It was found the old cover was too far gone,
and the bushing destroyed, a new cover was used for this portion,
replacing the cleaned components into the new cover.
Further checks of the shaft and kicker gear showed severe damage, a
whole kicker kit was was purchased from Sifton for this as nothing was
salvageable. Alignment of the shaft and gear for assembly is not well
explained in the book, I've taken extra time to explain it here.
Another challenge is setting up the shaft end-play with the supplied
bushing which is only a few thou/in. I've had to adjust this on a belt
sander and keep re-assembling until the end-play was perfect.
The next set is the disassembly of the shift assembly starting with
the removal of the top plug which needs to be drilled out to gain access
to the c-clip. I should have removed the shifter from the side first,
but that was just not going to happen without these parts removed first,
ultimately, all pieces would be disassembled.
Once the shifter piece was removed, it was disassembled as a
component, noting it has an oil seal. Cleaning now begins for all
individual pieces. Next are the springs and neutral switch, that was the
extent of what was removed from the cover, so the cover would be washed
and de-greased. This is followed with the cleaning and oiling of the
springs and their re-installation.
I then pulled the outer oil seal and spacer from the case for
preparation to bring to the shop. I head over to the bug ranch and get
started on stripping the old mainshaft of the gear and bearing. Then,
over to the 20ton press to finish the job. A quick look at the shaft
and bearing race shows everything in good condition.
Next the main bearing will be removed from the case, i've assembled a
special jig to pull the bearing out. It was NOT fast, but it was
effective. With the halftime inspection it took over half an hour using
this method, but nothing broke.
Ill note that this is exactly 50% of the entire FXS lowrider project
right here!!!
The transmission case then went into the parts washer for a much
needed bath. While it was cooling down I took the time to replace the
seal for the shifter using a special tool I made for the job.
Back at the garage every single individual top component of the
transmission is cleaned/inspected/oiled and re-assembled. The Neutral
switch gets PTFE on the threads and the top C-clip did not come with the
rebuild kit.
One bolt is pre-added before the shifter goes back on, very important.
I shift through all gears as a test and finally hammer in a new plug
on top. This finishes this episode of the transmission rebuild.
In part 12 of this series where we will begin the reassembly of the
transmission with the arrival of the custom modified mainshaft from Ray
[saddlebagrail]. The custom work and seals are evident upon inspection.
Everything looks really good.
I stopped by the bug ranch quickly with the old main bearing to press
the bearing out of the race. My mother was in town to join us for the
bearing extraction at the ranch. I'd ordered a replacement bearing from
J&P. In this rare occasion I was quite disappointed with what had
arrived, some Tucker Rocky Chinese garbage. So I'd searched for and
ordered the original SKF bearing. I usually have great luck with
J&P, this was a rare occasion. The main drive gear bearing and
other parts from them was just fine. I do have the special tool for the
bearing installation.
For all of the bearing work to make things easier, I threw everything
in the freezer while I set up everything. I didn't expect too much
resistance pressing it into the race, but this bad boy fell right in, I
wasn't comfortable with that. I decided to peen the inside of the race
and use some red Locktite as well to add some out bearing seating
security. With that the bearing pressing in appropriately.
Now I start to assemble a wooden mount for the transmission case so
that it can be safely placed on the press. Once situated, the main
bearing is pulled from the freezer and staged, along with the special
installation tool. Keeping in mind the correct direction, the tools
allows for easy installation at the correct depth.
Now the gears are inspected and cleaned up as they are prepared to
be installed onto the new mainshaft. The first of the gears are pressed
onto the shaft. This is followed by the bearing and race onto that
gear assembly. Then, finished off with a new lock washer and nut, into a
softjaw vice and torques to 55ft/lbs. Finally, securing the locking
tabs to completion.
The other gears and components are cleaned and inspected, though
before the day ends, the case is turned over and some green locktite
added to the base of the studs for sealing.
The next day continues with the greasing of all areas of the final
drive gear as its inserted into the main bearing. As the shaft is then
inserted through, all of the parts are lined up in order for correct
assembly onto the shaft, making its way through to the final drive gear
seal. It can only go so far before the snap ring need to be brought
into position so the shaft can be brought into further.
To get the last of the shaft in, the bearing race needs to be pressed
in. So the gears don't fall on the shaft they are taped into position,
the bearing and race is then pressed in to full seat. After which the
tape is removed.
I temporarily apply the bearing race retainer plate so nothing slips
for now. after which the spacer and seal receive ample grease. The
seal and spacer are brought together over the shaft. The wooden stand
needs to be modified again to accommodate the shaft as the transmission
goes back onto the press to seat the seal and spacer.
With that the mainshaft portion of the installation is completed, ending
this portion of the installation.
This episode continues with the reassembly of the 4 speed transmission.
This will deal with the counter-shaft assembly. This includes
disassembly, cleaning, inspection, and reassembly. The ends of this
years counter-shaft has pressed in caged bearings, I will have to remove
these and replace them as well.
Pulling these bearings was a bit of a challenge as one of them was
frozen requiring a bit of a break on the press to get it moving, it
sounded like a bullet when it broke free. A mild rust line was seen as
the cause, followed by much contamination from the last build. The rest
could be cleaned and saved.
Standard cleaning procedures are done to prepare followed by oil as
the gears are inspected. The bearings are tossed in the freezer as
staging is done to setup for the pressing task. Each side gets a
bearing pressed in just under the lip chamfer. With that task
completed, all of the other pieces are washed for inspection.
I used new bushings, though one of the bushings provided did not fit
properly, its a very specific fit, calling J&P they sent me rush
delivery a new bushing for free without question. This was a minor
delay, but when the new one arrived it fit and the first of the assembly
was started. Everything oiled as installed.
With the counter-shaft completed, the end-play measurement and
adjustment will need to be done. Dropping the counter-shaft in with the
shaft and old shim, holding the transmission sideways its pushed in and
then the feeler gauge is used to measure the endplay. As 14 is too
wide, the current shim is measured so the extra .010 thickness could be
measured and a new shim ordered.
The new shim is then inserted providing for about .005 inches of
end-play With the final assembly of the counter-shaft, this time the
new shaft from the kit is used with the provided seal. The notch of the
shaft must be turned to fit the locking plate on the other end properly
at 8 o'clock.
In this episode we continue with the 5th part in the transmission
series, continuing from the counter-shaft assembly and installation. Now
we move onto the shift forks. This begins with the installation of the
retaining plate and deflector, the screws will be installed with blue
locktite, tightened to 105 in/lbs.
The next step will be the preparation of the kick starter pieces which will be cleaned and inspected. Pieces from the kit will replace some from the non reusable items. Each item is re-added onto the shaft. I'd noticed that the end nut would not go on, and found i had a slight burr on the thread, requiring a quick minor repair. I did decide however, to opt for a new end nut for this job since the shaft was new. In order to torque the nut properly I mounted the transmission into the bike to hold it in place, torquing to 40ft/lbs. Followed directly by bending the locking tabs for that nut.
Now, moving onto the shift forks, washing and inspection begins, without disassembly, so that they can be measured in the transmission. They are reinstalled in the unit using a new shift fork shaft from the rebuild kit. The sprocket also needs to be snugged down on the shaft as well. The nut is reverse thread.
Once the the sprocket is tightened down, the top cover is shifted into neutral so that my special tool JIMS 963385-78A, Fork centering tool, can be installed onto it, establishing the neutral points for the cover that can be transposed into the transmission at the shift forks. The shift forks are held into correct center by the tool. The centering can be measured on each.
As measurement begins, problems are quickly seen with centering. .75/.84 for the counter-shaft fork. .75/.158 for the main-shaft. With these measurements, it is understood what shims need to be added and removed and how much. so the forks can now be disassembled one at a time, to see what shims are inside them and what needs to be ordered to bring them back to center.
We continue with the sixth and final chapter of the transmission
restoration. All of the required shims have arrived and I will be
combining them together based on my notes so that the fork placement
will be moved to center. The forks, cleaned in the last video and
reassembled with new locking clips from the rebuild kit, though the
locking tabs will not be bent down until final testing is complete.
120in/lbs Tightens the fork assembly and it is re-introduced into the
transmission.
Reassembled, everything is re staged with the alignment tool to
conduct testing for the adjustments. It turned out it was almost
perfect but I went one more round of adjustment to get it perfect.
Setting up again for testing, with everything centered nicely. I take
it all out one last time to bend down the locking tabs and re-assemble
with a new shaft and o-ring.
The new sprocket will be installed onto the shaft with the new lock
washer. The whole unit is mounted on the bike to torque correctly.
Sadly for left hand torque I bought the AC-DELCO ARM602-4A digital
torque wrench adapter. This was the only video this piece of garbage
work in, it never worked again.
Back on the bench more pieces are prepared, as the oil slinger and
clutch throw-out are disassembled, cleaned, inspected and reassembled.
The side cover positions are then specifically addressed in the video,
since the workshop book is , well, confusing. Once the positions are
understood, the nut on the starter shaft bolt is tightened to 30-35
ft/lbs. As my case is older, the gasket surfaces are covered with a
thin coat of Hylomar. All studs are pre-chased with a nut before this
installation. Pulling out the oil slinger a bit makes it easier to
negotiate the cover on, rolling the inside to the 9 oclock position just
off-cam as its assembled for less resistance.
Keeping in mind, i'm using Nord-lock washers, my torque computation
will be slightly different than stock. Conducted in a star
configuration. The kicker arm can be used to rotate and bring the
kicker shaft so that the arm is in the 12o'clock position, then the
spring can be installed. Then secured with the kick arm bolt and nut.
On top of the transmission. New rollers are provided with the kit and
added to the forks, I add some oil to them during installation.
Conducting a final inspection as I roll through the gears, removing any
dirt found. The top gasket is then laid down in position. A bit of
anti seize is added to where the steel pins go through for alignment.
The forks are moved to the neutral position, as the shifter is also
brought to neutral. The cover is then laid down onto the transmission.
Each screw receives blue locktite. Then 100 in/lbs. Star pattern.
Transmission oil is then added to the unit, not full but enough for
storage and testing. The clutch lever is then added and then tightened
down. An inspection of the cover weeks later shown no oil leak. We
roll through all of the gears to test functionality, everything seems to
be just fine. All I need to do now is finish the engine and the bike.
With part 15 behind us, we move to a new chapter in this project with
the reassembly of the Shovelhead engine. I have this bottom end, just
rebuilt returned and on the stand for this task. This episode, part 16
focuses specifically on the Oil pump rebuild and installation. The pump
has been stored since the breakdown and is now opened on the bench for
further disassembly.
Starting with the front of the pump, Fully disassembled, all parts are washed , de-greased and then blown out with air. All passages are checked. The mating surfaces are carefully cleared with a new razor. I do not use the chain oiler so it is fully seated and capped off. The low pressure switch, which was cleaned out, receives teflon tape before re-installation.
The other half of the pump is then disassembled, all parts and pieces cleaned and inspected, de-greased and blown out. For the rebuild, i'm using James kit 89403-7306. The new seal was installed with a 10mm socket.
The oil hose fittings need to be removed for installing the oil pump so they are removed now.. The tube for the shaft on the engine is inspected for dirt before the process is started, this is followed by cleaning the face of the engine case where the pump site. The shaft is then prepared with oil and inserted into the tube a few times to distribute oil.
The gear and shaft are installed in a manner allowing for the woodruffs key to go in as easily as possible.
The bolts are progressively tightened in a star pattern from 40 , 80 to 120 in/lbs. I decided to cosmetically clean up the brass elbows before re-installation by wet-sanding them to remove all of the tool marks. They are reinstalled into the pump with teflon tape. With that the oil pump is installed, ready for the next project to get this engine back together.
Starting with the front of the pump, Fully disassembled, all parts are washed , de-greased and then blown out with air. All passages are checked. The mating surfaces are carefully cleared with a new razor. I do not use the chain oiler so it is fully seated and capped off. The low pressure switch, which was cleaned out, receives teflon tape before re-installation.
The other half of the pump is then disassembled, all parts and pieces cleaned and inspected, de-greased and blown out. For the rebuild, i'm using James kit 89403-7306. The new seal was installed with a 10mm socket.
The oil hose fittings need to be removed for installing the oil pump so they are removed now.. The tube for the shaft on the engine is inspected for dirt before the process is started, this is followed by cleaning the face of the engine case where the pump site. The shaft is then prepared with oil and inserted into the tube a few times to distribute oil.
The gear and shaft are installed in a manner allowing for the woodruffs key to go in as easily as possible.
The bolts are progressively tightened in a star pattern from 40 , 80 to 120 in/lbs. I decided to cosmetically clean up the brass elbows before re-installation by wet-sanding them to remove all of the tool marks. They are reinstalled into the pump with teflon tape. With that the oil pump is installed, ready for the next project to get this engine back together.
Part 17 brings us to the second video in the engine build series which
includes the gearcase Lifters cam and other associated parts. As each
section of parts is re-introduced they are cleaned from their storage
oil and then re-oiled. The first will be the cam and spacer. This is a J
grind. The inner bearing of the engine receives extra 60W oil and the
spacer installed the the correct direction as the cam is installed
paying attention to the notch markings. I use a good amount of assembly
lube between the gear surfaces as well.
This is followed by the breather and washer, same cleaning and oiling
procedure. Also, observing the notches lining up on re-installation.
Again, a bit more assembly lube is worked between the gears. At this
point the notches should all match up in the right position.
Over at the bug ranch to press in a new seal, we start with a proper
cleaning though I find a significant amount of bronze was still inside
the unit, so several rounds of cleaning was done until the cam cover was
completely clean. The press was set up for this task to put in this one
seal, i used 1 1/16 socket to do the job. The next day, just to be sure
I cleaned out the cover one last time but drained it into a coffee
filter just to be sure it was clean of metal flakes.
The cover is then completely cleaned with spirits. as well as the mating
surface of the case. The new gasket is installed over the set pins. he
cover is them placed over the cam through the bushing, followed by pin
alignment, and pressed to full seat. The bolts are now reintroduced,
loose fit and then torqued in star pattern to 80in/lbs this is followed
by 120in/lbs.
The rotor and nut for the ignition are cleaned and installed. That small
screw is installed with about 24in/lbs only. I use blue 243 for this
nut. The two inner plate screws are then installed, and temporarily the
cover is installed as a dust cap.
Cam end-play check is .010 so we can proceed to the lifters which has
been stored in oil. Each one is removed one at a time, marked in their
original position of the engine. Cleaned , de-greased and re-oiled.
After re-oiling, the hydraulics are inspected through a few methods to
ensure the lifters are still good. The parts are submerged in mew oil ,
especially the roller portion. Once two are done the lifter block is
serviced. cleaned and lightly oiled. All passages should be checked for
obstruction.
This is the last opportunity to apply assembly lube to the cam lobes so
that is done, then all mating surfaces are cleaned on both the block and
lifter block. Everything is assembled in the lifter block, exerting
slight pressure against both lifters holds everything together as the
whole assembly is lowered into the engine.
Using the centering tool to align the tappet blocks I get them in the
middle as I install the opposing screws, followed by the ones in the
center tool position. With Blue 243 the bolts are torques to 120in/lbs.
Before I do the second tappet block I pour 4oz of oil directly in the
gear case.
Finishing off I added some last pieces for the oil screen and parts for the oil pressure gauge to bring us to the next chapter.
Continuing onward to part 18 in the series, we reach the point where
work will be conducted with the cylinders, pistons and rings. As such
all Items will need to be measured to ensure proper fitment. First
however, the missing base stud will need to be addressed, giving
adequate time to dry in the block.
I was able to order the base stud from my local Harley dealership PN: 16837-78, it is an interference fit, so installation will not be too pleasant, or, shouldn't be, anyway. I went to Lowes to pick up some 7/16-20 nuts for this task at Lowes. Lowes does not carry 7/16-20 nuts. Home Depot does....
A double nut technique was employed to tighten the stud into the block after measuring the existing studs to determine depth. Also, Ive oiled the flywheel and cut some paper that was oiled and allowed to be rolled a bit into the engine just to cover the hole for the stud to catch any crap from the process. Loctite 271 is used in this process, turning and rechecking with the calipers until the depth is reached. Then the paper pulled out, the nuts removed from the stud, and one final caliper check before its left to dry.
Back inside the house, the cylinder bore will be measured. starting with the calibration of the micrometer. 3.498 + .020 = 3.518 Will be our measurement value. With this set up the bore gauge is then referenced against it. A diagram of how the measurements will be taken is drawn recording the data as taken. Prepping the bore by cleaning it out with a light oil.
Next will be the pistons to cylinder clearance. The manual calls out .002 to .0025 clearance. I used two different methods at the skirt as the vendor provided no info, one comparative, and the other using a feeler gauge method.
After this the ring gap is checked to their respective cylinder, one at a time, as its manually compressed into the cylinder and guided by the piston into the measuring position. With gaps of .017 and around .0025 clearance with accurate bore sized it looks like everything sizes good for the next steps of the project.
I was able to order the base stud from my local Harley dealership PN: 16837-78, it is an interference fit, so installation will not be too pleasant, or, shouldn't be, anyway. I went to Lowes to pick up some 7/16-20 nuts for this task at Lowes. Lowes does not carry 7/16-20 nuts. Home Depot does....
A double nut technique was employed to tighten the stud into the block after measuring the existing studs to determine depth. Also, Ive oiled the flywheel and cut some paper that was oiled and allowed to be rolled a bit into the engine just to cover the hole for the stud to catch any crap from the process. Loctite 271 is used in this process, turning and rechecking with the calipers until the depth is reached. Then the paper pulled out, the nuts removed from the stud, and one final caliper check before its left to dry.
Back inside the house, the cylinder bore will be measured. starting with the calibration of the micrometer. 3.498 + .020 = 3.518 Will be our measurement value. With this set up the bore gauge is then referenced against it. A diagram of how the measurements will be taken is drawn recording the data as taken. Prepping the bore by cleaning it out with a light oil.
Next will be the pistons to cylinder clearance. The manual calls out .002 to .0025 clearance. I used two different methods at the skirt as the vendor provided no info, one comparative, and the other using a feeler gauge method.
After this the ring gap is checked to their respective cylinder, one at a time, as its manually compressed into the cylinder and guided by the piston into the measuring position. With gaps of .017 and around .0025 clearance with accurate bore sized it looks like everything sizes good for the next steps of the project.
In this the 19th chapter in the series, the casting on the pistons will
be corrected along with a few measurement before we finally mount
everything onto the engine. I took exception to the raised numbers on
the face of the piston as well as the shotty ends of the valve reliefs. A
dremel with polishing paste made quick work to soften these jagged
edges that could cause hot spots in the combustion chamber. This was
followed by a quick wrist pin measurement, by request and significant
washing.
Funny thing, these pistons have no indication as to placement, though not entirely symmetrical on the underside, having addressed this years ago, I reviewed older footage to make this determination. As the pistons are marked, I use the pins to check the wrist pin bushings with oil, pre staging the keepers on one side. All surfaces lubed, the pistons are mounted onto the rods followed by the second keeper.
The rings are pre oiled and loaded onto the pistons. I take a moment to prepare a few dowels with supper 88 that will be used to steady the pistons during the loading of the cylinder. The dowels are set up under the pistons providing a secure platform. Correct cylinder, gasket and the placement is checked and rechecked. A process of cleaning is done to ensure the cylinder is perfectly clean inside and out. Dried and oiled as to not flash rust.
The oil rings are checked for no overlap, sliding freely. Side clearance is checked and the correct opening skew between the rings is checked. Ive washed a rubber mallet and a ring compressor. oiled everything completely as the compressor is staged, the cylinder is lowered onto the chamfered margin, light taps with the mallet drop the cylinder over the rings, before the cylinder is completely lowered, the one bolt on each side for the heads is pre-loaded. The cylinder is then lowered down to the studs. A dust cap is assembled with newspaper and oil. The triangular washers and new base nuts are placed on.
Once both cylinders are at this point torquing is begin. Front pullie components are re added temporarily so that the engine can be rotated. A flathead driver keeps the triangle washers centered as the base nuts are torqued. Using a cross pattern, 20, then 36 on both cylinders. Completing this chapter.
Funny thing, these pistons have no indication as to placement, though not entirely symmetrical on the underside, having addressed this years ago, I reviewed older footage to make this determination. As the pistons are marked, I use the pins to check the wrist pin bushings with oil, pre staging the keepers on one side. All surfaces lubed, the pistons are mounted onto the rods followed by the second keeper.
The rings are pre oiled and loaded onto the pistons. I take a moment to prepare a few dowels with supper 88 that will be used to steady the pistons during the loading of the cylinder. The dowels are set up under the pistons providing a secure platform. Correct cylinder, gasket and the placement is checked and rechecked. A process of cleaning is done to ensure the cylinder is perfectly clean inside and out. Dried and oiled as to not flash rust.
The oil rings are checked for no overlap, sliding freely. Side clearance is checked and the correct opening skew between the rings is checked. Ive washed a rubber mallet and a ring compressor. oiled everything completely as the compressor is staged, the cylinder is lowered onto the chamfered margin, light taps with the mallet drop the cylinder over the rings, before the cylinder is completely lowered, the one bolt on each side for the heads is pre-loaded. The cylinder is then lowered down to the studs. A dust cap is assembled with newspaper and oil. The triangular washers and new base nuts are placed on.
Once both cylinders are at this point torquing is begin. Front pullie components are re added temporarily so that the engine can be rotated. A flathead driver keeps the triangle washers centered as the base nuts are torqued. Using a cross pattern, 20, then 36 on both cylinders. Completing this chapter.
With this the twentieth episode the heads are revisited from the very beginning of the project where they were quickly re-assembled after inspection. They deserve the same attention as the rest of the bike and as the heads were thoroughly checked, the rocker boxes deserve a rebuild.
A quick tear-down separates the heads from the rocker boxes and though while a visual appearance shows everything ok, it will need to be completely taken apart to be sure. The cracked glass on the ends of the nuts is an indicator that I should probably go chrome this time.
As the pieces are disassembled they are put in there own areas as to not mix parts. Re-assembled outside the unit you can hear some deflection in the bushing on the first one. So onto the second one, not as bad but still mild wear. I decide to break down the other head and see if it has the same wear indication and see what needs to be purchased.
The other rocker box had mild wear on both. It was that first one tapping on the box that had the most damage. A measurement of the shafts with the micrometers showed them within tolerance. Broken shaft and bushings would have meant a whole new set. Next all of the pads will be checked, if they are damaged the rocker cant be salvaged. All of the pads are shown to be good as well.
After seeing that only the bushings were the issue , someone on the forum was kind enough to send me the special tools, so all i needed was to procure the new bushings to refresh this unit. A 9/16 tap and a drift is used to extract the old bushings from the rockers. It did look as if some of the bushings in my bike were previously replaced at some point.
With the bushings arrived, Jims kit 17428-57K, I start with the oil port side, chamfered side in first matching the oil port hole in the bushing to the inside oil port hole. The tool brings the bushing flush into position. An inspection confirms that the oil hole lines up. On one of them the oil hole was slightly off, so id chased the hole with a small drill bit to ensure adequate oil flow. At this point everything will need to be set up for reaming, that will be in the next video.
Continuing with Part 21 the bushings have all been pressed in the the
rocker arms and the must now be reamed to size. Ive leaded the rocker
arms into a vice with soft jaws. The reamer in a T-bar with light oil is
turned into the bushing cutting into the first and then the second one.
This reamer being a bit worn I found going in both directions was helpful , also finishing off with polish and a drill for final fitment. The test is with the fitment, which shows to fit nice without binding nor deflection.
With all of them done, I move onto the washing and polishing of the rocker boxes with jewelers rouge. once polishing is completed, assembly begins, the face of the spacers are cleaned op on sand paper and oil, then all pieces assembled in the rocker box. Old nuts, bolts and washers will ne used for the test assembly.
Once torqued, binding is checked and endplay is checked. .08 / .13 and .14 / .10 initially I tried to disassemble the boxes and install appropriate shims. I did NOT like how the shims fit and decided since everything was in specification I would forego the shims and keep the end-play. Everything was re-assembled with new hardware.
Now with the rocker boxes assembled, the mating surfaces are cleaned as well as on the heads, and the gaskets inspected. the head is then lowered onto the rocker box, flipping everything over the washers and nuts are installed. The slack drawn out begins the torquing sequence. In a star patters 145in/lbs to 175 in/lbs brings everything together.
The heads are ready to be installed onto the motor.
This reamer being a bit worn I found going in both directions was helpful , also finishing off with polish and a drill for final fitment. The test is with the fitment, which shows to fit nice without binding nor deflection.
With all of them done, I move onto the washing and polishing of the rocker boxes with jewelers rouge. once polishing is completed, assembly begins, the face of the spacers are cleaned op on sand paper and oil, then all pieces assembled in the rocker box. Old nuts, bolts and washers will ne used for the test assembly.
Once torqued, binding is checked and endplay is checked. .08 / .13 and .14 / .10 initially I tried to disassemble the boxes and install appropriate shims. I did NOT like how the shims fit and decided since everything was in specification I would forego the shims and keep the end-play. Everything was re-assembled with new hardware.
Now with the rocker boxes assembled, the mating surfaces are cleaned as well as on the heads, and the gaskets inspected. the head is then lowered onto the rocker box, flipping everything over the washers and nuts are installed. The slack drawn out begins the torquing sequence. In a star patters 145in/lbs to 175 in/lbs brings everything together.
The heads are ready to be installed onto the motor.
In part 22 we have the bike on the on the new lift, having assembled our engine and transmission from smaller projects. All of these are brought together as preparations are done, and the rest of the oil system is removed so that the engine can be properly installed.
The review of this new Kendon fold away lift can be seen here on my channel
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnrNQPh5Moo
With the bike on the lift I have some things I'd finally like to do, this includes some rear brake work, decking the engine mounts, removing all oil system components. This work has to be done while the frame is empty. Since the oil components were removed i just cleaned everything out with kerosene and stored it away.
The front and rear engine mounts need to be prepped with a file carefully to remove any raises and deformities, generally directly around the holes. All paint is removed too.
Once everything was ready, Jason stopped by to assist in bringing the engine over from the bench to the frame. We get to see the new jack in action, and a few quirks. At the right height it slid over from the motorcycle jack right into the bike. Then it was immediately secured with one bolt for safety.
With the engine now in the frame the rear bolts and front were inserted but the fronts were used only for alignment checking for resistance to center them. Only the rear bolts are tightened. They are tightened to 24 then 38 ft/lbs. The front bolts should come out with no issue at all if the engine is straight. The shift assembly/kick-stand is removed for further work.
Feeler gauges are used on the front to check clearance on each mount. Checking both front and side of each mount. 2.5 and 3 thou on one mount was sufficient. Once the shims were set the skid plate was added to the bottom of the chassis.
Now the front mounting bolts can be snugged with the rear shield mounts, Then the front mounts are torqued to 25 then 38 ft/lbs. a sharp boxcutter is then used to cut the protruding shim material, bending them back and forth to crack them. This area is finally cleaned and painted over with the paint used for the frame bringing this chapter to a close.
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